We lived in Rome for a year and a half during which time I became addicted to this classic Roman primo. I’d try it at every trattoria we went to, comparing richness, pasta texture, pepperiness and all the other nuances of the dish. As you’ll see it’s ridiculously simple, but then so is that first kiss, so don’t be fooled. As the name suggests (cacio is the Roman name for the local pecorino), it’s just cheese and ground pepper mixed in with spaghetti.
Grate the cheese into a bowl (big enough to fit the cooked pasta too) and mix with a very generous quantity of freshly ground pepper. Don’t stint – the piquant pepper is the counterpart to the cheesy richness.
Cook the spaghetti in abundant salted water according to the instructions. When you drain it, keep back half a cup of the starchy pasta water.
Pour the drained spaghetti over the cheese and mix with a couple of forks (sometimes the waiter does performs this ceremonial act before your very eyes). Add a teaspoon or so of the cooking water and toss thoroughly. Serve at once – this needs to be eaten hot, so the flavour of the pepper comes through, and moist.
